Sikkim became a part of the Republic of India in 1975 when the Chogyal ,or King of Sikkim, Palden Thondup Namgyal, was pressurised to step down and democracy was installed in the small Himalayan Buddhist State. The people have accepted the Indian form of democracy and Sikkim seems to be moving on relatively well under the present leadership. Vast swathes of this sparsely populated State are manned by the Indian Army, protecting our border against possible Chinese incursions from Tibet. Sikkim, till the Sino-Indian conflict in the early ‘Sixties, was the natural highway to Tibet and Lhasa from India. With the border sealed and mined, the trade route has become history and the Sikkimese, especially the people of Tibetan stock inhabiting the north, had to adapt to the changed circumstances. The enterprising among them are flocking to the tourism trade which is expanding fast. Smooth and reliable roads, one of the better contributions of the defence establishment, connect remote areas in Sikkim with Gangtok.

Over the last few years, the restrictions on travelling in Sikkim have been eased. Even foreign tourists are flocking into the State in substantial numbers. That is not surprising, though. Within a small area, approximately the size of the National Capital region around Delhi, Sikkim packs in the best of Himalayan holidays. Spectacular high-altitude lakes, mountain passes, dense forests, red pandas, wild orchids, prestigious Buddhist monasteries, smart and smiling populace—the mix is blissful.

Gangtok, like many other hill capitals, is blessed with a superb location. The ridge along which the town lies faces the Khangchendzonga in the west. The lower hills in the vicinity tumble down through the golden green terraces of paddy fields. Above the town, towards the top of the ridge, Enchey monastery keeps a vigil over the city. Nearby, Ganesh Tok offers a panoramic view of the Gangtok area. In the middle of the undulating valley, the old palace of the erstwhile king stands upon a hillock commanding a strategic yet scenic position. The zoological park next to Ganesh Tok is worth a visit for the sake of its superb location. A walk along its silent winding roads with exotic birds and tall pines for company and the snow-clad Himalayas as a constant beacon sets the mind free and the spirit soaring.

Situated 23 km away, on a hill opposite Gangtok, Rumtek monastery is the seat of Karma Pa who heads the Kargyupa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The plan, layout and buildings of this monastery give an idea of high Tibetan architecture to sensitive visitors—momentarily getting lost in the alleys, stairways, quadrangles and terraces of this vast built-up space. Statues, thangkas, tubular silk banners, wall-paintings and, above all, the disciplined yet relaxed group of monks scurrying about their daily business, gives a physical sense of being in another age and time. These images, complete with their joss-stick incense and gong sounds, remain etched in the memory for subsequent mental flights into another beautiful world.

Back in the centre of Gangtok, with its bazaars, bars and travel agents, one can do two things—shopping or arranging a trip to one of the must-see corners of Sikkim. Carpets, statuettes, masks, local silver jewellery with red corals and dragon motifs and Sikkimese portraits on black cloth are some of the perennial favourites with shoppers. As for arranging a trip, one couldn’t worry less. Jeeps ply on all the important tourist routes and the drivers arrange for the required permits without any extra cost. In the past couple of years, for better or for worse, it has become possible for an average visitor to go to places like Yumthang in North Sikkim which hitherto was a wilderness and out of bounds. Situated at a height of about 12,000 ft and surrounded by high mountains, this valley of primula and rhododendrons blooms in late April and May. Unlike other areas of Sikkim where rhododendrons are predominantly red, here the 38 different varieties bloom in a whole spectrum of colours. In the bowl of the valley, the blue Lachung river snakes through a wide, gently rolling meadow—white in the winter, primula-covered in spring and summer, and ochre-green at other times, Sunning oneself on this carpet of grass at the edge of the tree-line and looking towards the pinnacles of snow all around has an almost theatrical quality. No wonder, some filmmakers are flocking to Yumthang.

Towards the southern end of this flat expanse, on the other side of the river, the hot springs are reached by crossing the pedestrian bridge. The colourful prayer flags flutter furiously along the length of the bridge. The sulphur-rich water of the hot springs is collected in two covered pools for use by the bathers. An extended bath-session with underdressed Sikkimese boys, chatting and joking, under the blackened wooden planks of the high conical roof is literally like getting immersed into another culture.

Lachung, where most of these young boys come from to work as tour guides, is an old village on the way to Yumthang. The monastery here is famous for its Tibetan Mask Dance or Chaam that is performed here every year after the harvest season which generally falls in December. The courtyard is filled with men, women and children, gathered behind small portable cupboards that store their provisions for the day. Chhang, the delicious local barley beer, served in bamboo containers lined with silver, is freely circulated among friends and family. Amidst these gay surroundings, the eternal fight between good and evil is re-enacted through spectacular dances performed by dancers in fantastic masks. One senses the true spirit of a festival and the magic of Sikkim. The road to Tsomgo Lake located near the eastern border of Sikkim, rises steeply, just after Gangtok. Halfway through, the gradient eases and the road dances through the hills. Fruit trees, meadows and all too frequent camouflaged army barracks pass by. At a height of 12,310 ft and 35 km from Gangtok, this high altitude lake has become a must-see location for tourists. One has to disregard the monstrous shrill shouts of overexcited tourists at the lake shore. A leisurely walk along the shore takes you away from the jeep-loads of tourists and the elegant beauty of the place can be contemplated in silence. The still water reflects the surrounding scenery. Sheets of broken ice dazzle here and there on the surface. It is said that the lamas used to predict the future according to the colour of the water. Further ahead at 14,400 ft, Nathu La (Pass) connects Sikkim with Chumbi Valley in Tibet. Trade caravans used to ply this route till 1962. Now one can see Indian and Chinese soldiers manning the border.