One
can distinctly hear the rhythm of the shuttles of the looms as soon as one
enters this craft village popularly known as the Manchester of the East.
Sualkuchi, the biggest village of Assam with a population of around 50,000,
is situated on the north bank of the mighty Brahmaputra. It produces over 6
million metres of white and golden Assam silk indigenously called Pat and
Muga. The total number of looms in Sualkuchi is 20,502 in 2002-2003 of which
10,398 are engaged in producing white silk (Pat) and 9,602 produce golden
silk (Muga). The weavers produce the cloth using 0.5 million kilograms of
silk thread every year and the yearly turnover is nearly Rs. 15,000 million.
Every day 17,000 weavers are engaged simultaneously in their looms deftly
designing the silk-ware. Of these, 15,000 come from different areas of the
State and the rest are from neighbouring areas. Fifty thousand people are
employed directly or indirectly in the silk industry. The tradition of
weaving in this hamlet can be traced to the 11th century when Dharmapal, of
the Pal dynasty, sponsored the craft and brought 26 weaving families from
Tantikuchi to Sualkuchi. The village took shape as a weaver village when the
Ahoms occupied Sualkuchi defeating the Mughals in the mid 17th century.
Seeing the handiwork and magnificent designs, even the Mughals had bought
the cloth from the village.
The British economist Hamilton found during an economic
survey in 1808, before Assam was overtaken by David Scot, the first British
ruler of Assam, that Assam earned Rs. 1,30,900 by selling thread of golden
silk and woven silk clothes, cotton, pepper, bell metal, mustard, ivory,
etc. The survey recommended some steps to develop the silk industry so that
it could get a substantial market in Europe. Some of his recommendations
were that Assam should grow more mulberry trees to enable the weavers to get
silk fibre, to give incentives to the weavers to rear silkworms and make
silk thread, etc.
David Scot established a mulberry farm in Mangaldoi in
1842. However, successive governments in independent India have not been
able to develop this traditional weaving industry of the State. Lack of an
organised market, dubious role of middlemen, paucity of capital, frequent
power-cuts, lack of welfare programmes, supply of raw materials, etc. are
the major constraints.
The high cost of production due to inadequate raw
materials poses a threat to the indigenous handloom industry of the State
vis a vis cheap and apparently colourful silk produced in power-looms in
other parts of the country. The raw material for weaving golden silk (Muga)
comes from Dhemaji, Lakhimpur, Sibsagar, Goalpara and many other places.
However thread for producing white silk mainly comes from Karnataka.
The absence of any organised silkworm farming in the
State has increased the price of the finished products. The weavers have
gradually become dependent on the thread suppliers of Karnataka. Earlier,
silk thread came from China and Japan. There was a steady supply of thread
from these countries to Sualkuchi till 1963.
Later, in the name of protection to the sericulture
industry of the country, the Central Government banned supply of thread from
abroad. Apart from thread from Karnataka, thread also comes from Tamilnadu.
The weavers societies of the area demand that the
government should open a textile and thread bank at Sualkuchi; the National
Handloom Development Corporation should open a Cloth Auction Market at
Sualkuchi and open sales centres at various places of the country. They also
demand a Handloom Research and Training Centre, supply of thread and capital
at less interest, etc.
The weavers’ hope that the new world free trade regime
will bring a revolution once it becomes operational in 2005. The thread
merchants of Bangalore buy raw material from China. Since China has joined
the WTO, it will lift the excise and other taxes on import from that
country. At present, China exports thread to India. Sualkuchi is not merely
a village, it is a township that symbolises the art and culture of Assamese
society.