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| Thimphu Trails | |
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| The dzong, a generic term for a fort-cum-monastery, was renovated and expanded in the 1960s in the traditional style and continues to be the summer residence of the Central Monk Body of the country. | |
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A six-hour scenic drive takes one from the border town of Phuenishoing to Thimphu, the capital of this kingdom. Thimphu lies serenely by the side of the willow lined Wand chhu or Thimphu River. The town is a narrow strip stretched north-south with parallel roads running along the river interconnected by interesting by-lanes. Beautifully decorated shops line the main road Norzin Lam in Thimphu where the handful of tourists stand out amongst the locals dressed in the colourful traditional dresses of Bhutan. A visit inside is a must to see some of the most exquisite examples of Bhutanese weaving, The museum documents and displays the different patterns and weaves of cloth produced in different regions of Bhutan used for making gho, the traditional dress for men, and Kira, the floor-length dress worn by women. The royal family has donated many items on display and the richness of the silk brocade dresses and the heavily embroidered caps and boots that once adorned the royal personages takes one’s breath away. Further along the road, double-storied white houses with bands of red and yellow stand proudly with their walls painted with multicoloured floral patterns, mythical animals and the Tashi Tagye or the eight auspicious Buddhist symbols, each with a special meaning or religious significance. These ornate decorations are the most visible of Bhutanese art forms and are to be encountered everywhere from the interiors of monasteries to the door jambs of shops and of course, in the hotels and restaurants for the consumption of the jaw-gaping tourist. At the end of the road on the right bank of the river lies Trashi Chhoe Dzong, the impressive administrative centre that houses the National Assembly, the Secretariat, the throne rooms and the offices of the King. The dzong, a generic term for a fort-cum-monastery, was renovated and expanded in the 1960s in the traditional style and continues to be the summer residence of the Central Monk Body of the country. Within this complex any form of headgear is prohibited, that privilege being accorded only to the king. Women are not permitted inside the dzong after sunset. The only time the rule was bent was in the early Seventies, when during an official State visit, Indira Gandhi was housed there. The dzong is off-limits to casual visitors during office hours. The gates of the Tashiccho Dzong are flung open around the third week of September for the general public during the annual mask dance festival or tsechu which is a wonderful time to soak in the colours and spirit of the Bhutanese mind. A riotous display of colourful, and to the city bred surreal, attires and masks worn by the monks brings to life the primeval story of the victory of good over evil with its various twists, turns and local adaptations overlaid with Buddhist mythology. A short trip to Dochula, to the east of Thimphu, is recommended for a quick taste of "real" Bhutan. The 3,150-metre high pass leads into the valley of Punakha beyond which to the east lies the Black mountains and thence Bumthang, the cultural heartland of the Bhutanese. The way to Dochula is amazingly green with perhaps only two villages enroute. Those picturesque Bhutanese houses. Placed far apart from each other, complete with apple orchards and small terraced fields against the backdrop of a hundred per cent green cover were an environmentalist’s dream come true. From Dochula, the visitor gets the first peek of the high Himalayas to the snow-capped north. Down below to the east one sees the green Punakha valley and far away in the north the Gasa monastery, on the edge of the vast wilderness christened Jigme Dorje National Park, captures the soul like no magic. On the outskirts of Thimphu is Simtokha Dzong, the oldest surviving dzong of Bhutan. Like most other dzongs, it is situated on a hillock guarding the entrance to the valley; in the olden times it would have served both as a fortress and a monastery, but with warfare and feuding gone, the tourist will invariably be greeted by a group of red-robed young students of the seminary. Some may offer an evening snack made of puffed rice out of their own ration and then pose for an accompaniment of horns and percussion. This other-worldly sound in an otherwise silent, aging edifice gradually puts you under a spell. But just as you are imagining yourself in a medieval world, a young Bhutanese man traditionally dressed in gho and leaning against a wooden railing strikes up a conversation in impeccable English. As he explains some details of Bhutanese culture and contemporary policies, you are left wondering at this incredible fusion of the present and the past. |
The
shock of the sudden transition from the heavily populated Indian plains
to a sparsely populated wonderland turns to amazement as the thick green
of pine and deodar jungles welcomes you to Bhutan. The inevitable
comparisons with Switzerland spring to mind when a sharp bend on the
mountain road brings into view the colourfully decorated wooden houses
scattered across lush valleys. The snow-capped peaks of the Eastern
Himalayas provide the perfect backdrop and the call of the blue
whistling-thrush completes the picture. This last bastion of Himalayan
flora and fauna houses over 5,000 species of plants and 800 species of
birds and animals. Add to that a unique culture and people steeped in
ancient beliefs and practices. It is as if someone has showcased an
almost forgotten relic just for you.