There is more visible historical evidence of past eras in Thailand than in any other South-East Asian country. If you’re interested in ruins, temples and deserted cities, this is the place to go. For pure holiday-making magic, Thailand’s islands and beaches are working definitions of heaven. And as for urban delights, the huge metropolis of Bangkok, although it can alarm with its chaos and its scale, tends to charm visitors with its energy and cultural treasures. Thailand is an easy country to travel in, with efficient transport, cheap accommodation and a delicious cuisine. The Thais are renowned for their friendliness and hospitality to strangers.

The best overall time for visiting Thailand vis a vis climate is between November and February-during these months it rains less and is not too hot. The south is best visited when the rest of Thailand is miserably hot (March to May), and the north is best from mid-November to early December or when it starts warming up again in February. If you’re spending time in Bangkok, be prepared to roast in April and do some wading in October, probably the worst two months in the capital.

Events

Many festivals are linked to Buddhist or Brahmin rituals and follow a lunar calendar. New Year, Songkran, is celebrated in mid-April by ‘bathing’ Buddha images, paying respect to monks and elders by sprinkling water over their hands. The sowing and harvesting of rice has given rise to a cycle of festivals. To begin the official rice-planting season in early May, the king participates in an ancient Brahmin ritual in a large field in central Bangkok. A rocket festival is held in May in the country’s north east, using a volatile mixture of bamboo and gunpowder to convince the sky to send rain for the new rice season. The rice harvest from September to May leads to joyous local celebrations throughout Thailand. The Vegetarian Festival in Phuket and Trang, during which devout Chinese Buddhists eat only vegetarian food, continues for nine days from late-September to early-October. Merry-making processions are the most visible expression of this festival.

The Elephant Roundup in Surin in November is an elephantine festival popular with the kind of people who enjoy watching pachyderms play soccer. During the Loi Krathong Festival, held after the rainy season, candle-lit floats are cast into waterways to bring good fortune for the coming year.

The Cambodian and Myanmar border areas contain a volatile mixture of land mines, bandits, smugglers and rebels, who ambush unsuspecting visitors. Travellers should steer well clear of the borders or contact their embassy to obtain the latest reports on the security situation.

Bangkok has dominated Thailand’s urban hierarchy, as well as its political, commercial and cultural life, since the late 18th century.

Bangkok proper is located on the east side of the Chao Phraya river and can be divided into two by the main north-south train line. Old Bangkok glitters in the portion between the river and the railway and it is here that most of the older temples and the original palace are located. The new Bangkok is east of the railway line, covering many times more area than the old city. It incorporates the main commercial and tourist districts, which give way to a vast residential sprawl. For a city of this size, Bangkok is surprisingly full of quiet escapes. Must-sees include Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Traimit. Other sights include the tourist Wat Sai floating market in Thonburi, a boat trip through the city’s extensive and pongy network of canals (klongs), the Saovabha Institute Snake Farm and the renowned Oriental Hotel. Entertainment ranges from classical dance and Thai boxing to the bars of Patpong. For alternative night entertainment, check out the night markets behind Ratchaprarop Rd in Pratunam.

Khao San Rd in Banglamphu is the traditional budget-traveller centre, but the Sukhumvit Rd area has a better selection of mid-range hotels. Banglamphu and neighbouring Thewet are the best places for budget eating. If you want to take a city stroll and experience day-to-day Bangkok, head for Chinatown and Pahurat, the busy Chinese and Indian market districts.