The Paan Bazaar of Old Delhi

The ‘paan’ has been part of the Indian ethos since times immemorial. Its mention can be found in the classical Sanskrit literature and variously represents love and culture. There is hardly any part of the country which does not have a preference for one variety or another. Appropriately Old Delhi has a bazaar that is the treasure trove of all that.

by ANUPMA JAIN

Can you take us to paan bazaar, we asked the rickshaw-wallah. ‘I know every street, every corner of this area.’ said the rickshaw wallah. Then we cycled through the maze of streets in Old Delhi. Chandni Chowk has a large number of galis (lanes) and each one is different, with their own atmosphere and smells.

We set off, past the Chandni Chowk and the Ballimaran and the Khari Baoli and a hundred other bazaars, until we finally reached this paan bazaar.

Paan bazaar, an alley market in Sadar Bazaar, offers a glimpse of Indian culture in Old Delhi . In India betel leaf paan has been playing an important role in social life and customs for hundreds of years. In the court of the Mughal kings and others rulers the betel leaf of paan was offered as a part of hospitality, friendship and love. This bazaar is well known for betel leaf paan and its products that attract a large number of customers from across the city.

The bazaar has more than 100 paan shops. There are at least 50 varieties of paan available at paan bazaar from Rs 2 to Rs 400 per doli. A doli contains 200-250 paan. You can get a Golta madrasi paan, Bangla paan, paan Banarasi, Jagatnathi desi paan, dholak Pakistani paan, paan Hydrabadi or paan Afsana on the spot. The best betel leaf is the “Magahi” variety (from the Magadha region) grown near Patna in Bihar.

These paan come to mandi from all over the India. The delicately flavoured paan from Bengal is known as Desi Mahoba. Maghai and Jagannath are the main paan of Banaras and Orissa. There are a variety of betels leaves grown indifferent parts of Indian and the method of preparation also differs for ‘har jameen ka apna apna swad hota hai.’

Paan is very popular among local people. It is made up of green beetle leaves, paste of lime and a funny brown liquid and either tobacco or sweet essences as it depend on choice. People chew it and all the ingredients of paan make mouth red said the paan vendor. Most of the related products are found in paan bazaar. The products are manufactured in a highly sophisticated plant with modern technology under utmost hygienic conditions retaining freshness, high nutritive value intact with processing.

For authentic and mouth-watering taste, they use sachi paan leaves, chuna, gulkand, clove, cherry, flavoured saunf, masala cherry, sugar, artificial sweetner, menthol, date, saffron, condiments, sada bahar, dilkush, white gold, Tan Sen, pistachio, cherry, rose katri, anis, raisin, coconut, chaman bahar, coriander powder, jaggery, permitted food colors, cardamom and different flavour in different proportion and in different varieties as ingredients.

Mr. Manoj Kumar, a paan lover, says his favourite is the Banarasi paan, which is delicious and non- habit forming. By just keeping this naturally flavoured paan, its one crystal, in mouth keeps the freshness and flavour spread in the whole mouth and one feels fresh and good. It is perfect mouth freshener and digestive.

But what is so special about this paan bazaar that attracts elite people? “Our paans are popular because we have always maintained a high standard. While other paanwallahs use cheap betel leaves, we still sells the leaves that come from Maheshkhali. We never compromise on the quality of the ingredients,” says Aman Rehman. We also take care of our client’s likes and dislikes, he adds.

The heart-shaped betel-leaf, or piper betel, is preferably plucked when it is till young and tender and its taste is the best. The cultivation of this creeper needs a lot of care and attention. Dryness and exposure to the sun for too long a period can harm the plant. The betel creepers are usually cultivated under the shade of large trees or under the protection of high bamboo or thatched roofing, we are told by a paan merchant & commission agent.

The most important thing in making paan is the way it is done. Old hands work magic as he sets about preparing ‘paan’. A dash of chuna, a spot of kathha, zarda, chikni and qiwam and behold your favourite paan is ready.

Moin, as he is popularly known- is a past master in putting the ingredients in right proportion. His paan shop - just a stone’s throw from Chandni chowk- is the oldest one in the area.

There was so much to see, smell, taste, and feel in India that we anticipated that we would be very tired at the end of every day and we were.