AS
we stepped into the most vibrant wilderness of the state - Manas
National Park (MNP), after 13 years to our surprise, the wild
elephants larking in the darkness from nearby jungle greeted us by
trum-peting. We were told not to be afraid of at the sound of the
giant wild creature by the forest guards. We did not expect much
wildlife remained after wanton deforestation and poaching of wild
animals. We last visited MNP in the year 1991 at the peak of the
agitation for Bodoland. The park was mindlessly ravaged, large-scale
deforestation was visible, wild animals were mercilessly killed by
the poachers, nearby villagers. We even saw deer meat sold openly in
the markets. Deer meat, which usually costs high, was so much
available that the price of the deer meat went down to Rs 40 per kg.
It had become a harbouring ground of the extremists, poachers and
wood smugglers. We were initially denied entry by the then Field
Director Lahan into the MNP on security ground. After much
persuasion we were allowed to stay at Mathanguri forest rest house
on our own risk. The Field Director said in a lighter vein that
Manas was like a bride without cloth and therefore showing her to
the visitors was painful.
Revisiting Manas after 13 years is not quite a
different experience. We were shocked to see the abandoned forests
camps inside MNP, which were either completely ruined or burnt down
by the extremists. Except a few beat offices no camps are presently
functioning. Not only extremists, the goons from the nearby villages
have also taken out the wooden window and door panels breaking the
concrete walls, galvanized sheets from the roofs and whatever
valuables they found in absence of the forest guards. We found
inscription in the walls of Buraburhi camp asking the forest guard
to leave that place if they want to survive. The three-storied
wooden camp at Uchila was completely burnt down by the extremists.
Amazingly, one would find a national flag flung from atop the
Latajhar camp inside the jungle. We were told that the forest
department had to do that to indicate the security forces monitoring
the extremists’ camps from above the sky that the camp was of the
forest department and not a camp of the ultras to avoid possible
attacks. The forests though scantily spread over the 500-sqare km
area now after withstanding the ravage of the human greed still
harbour varieties of wild animals, biosphere species. A study team
of Gauhati University enlisted 600 species of plants in the park.
Observing the ranges of vegetations, the government has declared
Manas as a Biosphere Reserve in 1989. Manas was declared a World
Heritage site in 1985. The UNESCO reviews the status of the reserve
in 1989 during the Bodoland movement and seeing the extent of damage
the world body declare it as the World Heritage Site in danger. The
Manas has the distinction of having six prestigious status: Elephant
Reserve
( Ripuchirang reserve), Tiger reserve, World heritage in Danger,
Biosphere Reserve and Monitoring Reserve for killing of elephants
under Convention of Indian Trade in Endangered flora and Fauna (
CITEFF). However, the apathy of the government could be gauged if
one travels from Barpetaroad to Mathanguri- the forest guest house
situated inside the MNP on the bank of river Manas flowing through
the foothill of Bhutan. The entire stretch of the 20 km approaching
road from Bansbari to Mathanguri is in rubble. The road has not been
repaired during last 12 years.
Apart from the growing population of tigers,
Manas is also home to the rare golden langur, the hispid hare, the
pigmy hog, the one-horned rhinoceros, and at least 20 other species
of animals and birds that are listed as highly endangered. The
forest stretches beyond Indian territory to the Himalayan kingdom of
Bhutan, with the crystal waters of the Manas river demarcating the
international border. Some areas that adjoin the river path are
often flooded, but only for a brief period; the water level subsides
as soon as the rainfall stops because of the sloping. Mixed
deciduous type of vegetation is found in the park. The vegetation
that covers most of the park is of the mixed deciduous variety. This
mixed forest is interspersed by small glades of grass where deer can
be seen grazing in large numbers. Birds, which can be seen here are
the giant hornbills, both pied and gray varieties, pheasants, jungle
fowl, scarlet minivet, partridge, florican, and a variety of water
birds, like the brahminy ducks, mergansers and a range of egrets,
herons and pelican. Visitors to the park especially mention the
stunning sight of large numbers of hornbills flying over the Manas
river early mornings and evenings. The topography of the park is
mainly small meadows located among thickly forested foothills with
many rivulets, streams and natural drains flowing all over. The park
is mainly drained by the river Manas, which also forms the
international boundary between India and Bhutan.
The animal census conducted in the year 2000
shows that there are 62 tigers; elephants count 567 in 2002 census.
However, the rhino population from the MNP has almost eliminated
now. The census counts only 4 to 6 rhinos in the MNP. Bhutan also
maintains its parts of the forest as National Park. Since the
tigers, elephants and the other wild animals are free citizens of
the wilderness irrespective of the national boundaries built by
their human counterparts, they roam across the forests of the two
countries. Therefore, the census of wildlife in the MNP always
remained an incomplete an inaccurate exercise. India and Bangladesh
have realised the problem and therefore the forest department of
West Bengal and Bangladesh have recently agreed to go for joint
tiger census in the Sunderban. Bhutan and India should jointly go
for scientific mapping of the wildlife in the Manas region.