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Manas rises from rubbles
amid apathy and adore

BY GEETARTHA PATHAK

Manas was declared a World Heritage site in 1985. The UNESCO reviews the status of the reserve in 1989 during the Bodoland movement and seeing the extent of damage the world body declare it as the World Heritage site in danger. The Manas has the distinction of having six prestigious status: Elephant Reserve ( Ripuchirang reserve), Tiger reserve, World heritage in danger, Biosphere reserve and Monitoring reserve for killing of elephants under Convention of Indian Trade in Endangered Flora and Fauna (CITEFF).

AS we stepped into the most vibrant wilderness of the state - Manas National Park (MNP), after 13 years to our surprise, the wild elephants larking in the darkness from nearby jungle greeted us by trum-peting. We were told not to be afraid of at the sound of the giant wild creature by the forest guards. We did not expect much wildlife remained after wanton deforestation and poaching of wild animals. We last visited MNP in the year 1991 at the peak of the agitation for Bodoland. The park was mindlessly ravaged, large-scale deforestation was visible, wild animals were mercilessly killed by the poachers, nearby villagers. We even saw deer meat sold openly in the markets. Deer meat, which usually costs high, was so much available that the price of the deer meat went down to Rs 40 per kg. It had become a harbouring ground of the extremists, poachers and wood smugglers. We were initially denied entry by the then Field Director Lahan into the MNP on security ground. After much persuasion we were allowed to stay at Mathanguri forest rest house on our own risk. The Field Director said in a lighter vein that Manas was like a bride without cloth and therefore showing her to the visitors was painful.

Revisiting Manas after 13 years is not quite a different experience. We were shocked to see the abandoned forests camps inside MNP, which were either completely ruined or burnt down by the extremists. Except a few beat offices no camps are presently functioning. Not only extremists, the goons from the nearby villages have also taken out the wooden window and door panels breaking the concrete walls, galvanized sheets from the roofs and whatever valuables they found in absence of the forest guards. We found inscription in the walls of Buraburhi camp asking the forest guard to leave that place if they want to survive. The three-storied wooden camp at Uchila was completely burnt down by the extremists. Amazingly, one would find a national flag flung from atop the Latajhar camp inside the jungle. We were told that the forest department had to do that to indicate the security forces monitoring the extremists’ camps from above the sky that the camp was of the forest department and not a camp of the ultras to avoid possible attacks. The forests though scantily spread over the 500-sqare km area now after withstanding the ravage of the human greed still harbour varieties of wild animals, biosphere species. A study team of Gauhati University enlisted 600 species of plants in the park. Observing the ranges of vegetations, the government has declared Manas as a Biosphere Reserve in 1989. Manas was declared a World Heritage site in 1985. The UNESCO reviews the status of the reserve in 1989 during the Bodoland movement and seeing the extent of damage the world body declare it as the World Heritage Site in danger. The Manas has the distinction of having six prestigious status: Elephant Reserve
( Ripuchirang reserve), Tiger reserve, World heritage in Danger, Biosphere Reserve and Monitoring Reserve for killing of elephants under Convention of Indian Trade in Endangered flora and Fauna ( CITEFF). However, the apathy of the government could be gauged if one travels from Barpetaroad to Mathanguri- the forest guest house situated inside the MNP on the bank of river Manas flowing through the foothill of Bhutan. The entire stretch of the 20 km approaching road from Bansbari to Mathanguri is in rubble. The road has not been repaired during last 12 years.

Apart from the growing population of tigers, Manas is also home to the rare golden langur, the hispid hare, the pigmy hog, the one-horned rhinoceros, and at least 20 other species of animals and birds that are listed as highly endangered. The forest stretches beyond Indian territory to the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan, with the crystal waters of the Manas river demarcating the international border. Some areas that adjoin the river path are often flooded, but only for a brief period; the water level subsides as soon as the rainfall stops because of the sloping. Mixed deciduous type of vegetation is found in the park. The vegetation that covers most of the park is of the mixed deciduous variety. This mixed forest is interspersed by small glades of grass where deer can be seen grazing in large numbers. Birds, which can be seen here are the giant hornbills, both pied and gray varieties, pheasants, jungle fowl, scarlet minivet, partridge, florican, and a variety of water birds, like the brahminy ducks, mergansers and a range of egrets, herons and pelican. Visitors to the park especially mention the stunning sight of large numbers of hornbills flying over the Manas river early mornings and evenings. The topography of the park is mainly small meadows located among thickly forested foothills with many rivulets, streams and natural drains flowing all over. The park is mainly drained by the river Manas, which also forms the international boundary between India and Bhutan.

The animal census conducted in the year 2000 shows that there are 62 tigers; elephants count 567 in 2002 census. However, the rhino population from the MNP has almost eliminated now. The census counts only 4 to 6 rhinos in the MNP. Bhutan also maintains its parts of the forest as National Park. Since the tigers, elephants and the other wild animals are free citizens of the wilderness irrespective of the national boundaries built by their human counterparts, they roam across the forests of the two countries. Therefore, the census of wildlife in the MNP always remained an incomplete an inaccurate exercise. India and Bangladesh have realised the problem and therefore the forest department of West Bengal and Bangladesh have recently agreed to go for joint tiger census in the Sunderban. Bhutan and India should jointly go for scientific mapping of the wildlife in the Manas region.

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